I am writing this with
the intent to share the experience of Euro Cup with all of you who care about
soccer want the unique perspective I was able to get during my most recent trip
to Europe 2012 (and because Deyan asked nicely). While there is plenty I
missed, particularly in the beginning and the end of the tournament, hopefully
you enjoy the stories of what did happen. Plus this should be fun…
As the tourney opened I
was painfully stuck working. Quick background, I now work for a global
education company and was given an assignment to go to Rome for 10 days to meet
as many teachers and student groups as possible to meet and greet, make sure
everything was going well, schmooze and buy stuff for VIPs. Afterwards I flew
to Poland…Opening night I was meeting a group for dinner but did manage to take
out a group of the adults on the town. We got back just in time to watch the
Russian demolition of the Czechs. Funny how that ended up working out…
The next day I finished
work in time to get to Piazza di Campo de Fiori to watch the beginning of the
Netherlands v. Denmark. You would not believe how many Dutch fans were randomly
in Rome but you probably can believe how much they stand out in a crowd. In the
Piazza every bar/restaurant has tvs that are facing the square and there are
distinct areas devoted to certain countries that are marked by flags. I sat
with a cute Dutch girl and started talking about the potential the Dutch
clearly had to make an impact on the tourney. For those who watched this game,
it was the beginning of the end for the Dutch. Plenty of good possession and
individual skill but completely lacking teamwork, especially in the final
third. Surprisingly, the Dutch I spoke with after the game were not upset about
losing at all; they were more upset that they didn’t play well together. They
calmly said, “well, now we need to beat Germany.” Yikes, that’s optimism.
Again fail as I had to meet a group outside the city
during the Italy v Spain game. This blew and I was pissed. I went to the
restaurant half an hour early so I could watch the first 30 minutes in a side
room with the staff before the group came into the restaurant. It was still
kind of visible so I was jumping up from the table strategically to check the
score and watch replays when something had clearly happened. I did however make
it back to an Irish pub in Rome for the Ireland v Croatia game. Despite the
enthusiasm and drinking ability of the Irish fans, they never stood a chance
and I was impressed with Croatia (and very much looking forward to attending
Spain v Croatia).
I’ll speed up a little bit here because even with maximum
creativity license, I was still watching games on Tv’s, cool part was that it
was at night and in Italy. England v France attracted some fans but they got
along (oddly) so nothing interesting happened and the game wasn’t that good. Afterwards
I went to this really cool neighborhood called the Travestere in Rome which you
should check out if you are there. Kinda like an Italian hipster neighborhood
without any of the negative hipster traits. In part due to this find I really
enjoyed the Ukraine v Sweden game. Also because of the throwback for Sheva.
Moving ahead, Blaszkowski’s goal was sick and I only
caught the end of the much anticipated Germany v Netherlands bc of evening
work. The last 20 minutes were really entertaining as the Dutch fans started to
get really excited but ultimately they were let down tremendously. Also screw
Portugal for scoring late against the Danish.
So 3rd match day of round 2 I flew to Krackow.
Krackow is really small and really old (not destroyed in WWII) and has
beautiful Polish girls. There is one main square where all of the night life is
and there were flags announcing Euro Cup everywhere. Every single tv in Poland
was playing each match all tourney long. They were such proud hosts that it was
genuinely pretty heartwarming. I watched the Spanish rip Ireland apart as once
again the Irish fans got drunk and silly but couldn’t compete. Vodka and beer
are dangerously cheap in Poland and I ended up seeing a friend from work,
completely randomly, and raged with jubilant Spaniards all night. My Spanish
was flowing…
I’ll save specific site seeing stories for another time
as this is explicitly a Euro Cup thing. Next set of games began after we
dragged ourselves very hungover through a couple of walking tours of the old
town and Jewish quarter of Krakow. France and Ukraine had that stupid rain
delay which threw off the timing of what I think was a Friday night. Anyways, I
was hanging out with some dude from LA who just got a massive severance from
some defense contractor and was down to party. We went to this outdoor bar in
the square showing the game where Trotsky and Stalin (or whatever his name was
at the time) used to sit and rip vodka shots, this felt cool… Possible game of
the tourney for me between England and Sweden, not necessarily in terms of
quality but in terms of drama. I was rooting hard for Sweden because I was
headed to Sweden on the day of the last round of matches and it would have been
sweet if that game had meant something. Cue Welbeck’s cheeky finish and the
last Sweden match didn’t matter.
Now for the GOOD STUFF (sorry it took so long). Train to
Warsaw arrived at maybe 4 pm. The Warsaw FanZone was right next to the train
station so I check it out before going to drop my bags off at the house I was Couch
Surfing at. Went downtown to the main area again and walked all the way to the
stadium, very legit. Also, seemingly very easy and cheap to get a ticket to
Russia v Greece but I preferred to watch the final Poland match with all the
Poles. Lots of Russians in town though and a weird vibe after the rioting the
previous round. Side note on what happened; apparently it was some kind of
national holiday so the Russian federation submitted a proposal to allow the
supporters to march down to the stadium. Many Polish people said this would be
a bad idea… So during the march, Poles would put scarves over their faces, go
in for a few slugs and then bounce, remove the scarf and act like nothing
happened. Clearly the police got involved and it was shown all over the news.
Oh well.
Anyways, I end up meeting the couple I was staying with
and after debating where to watch the match, the wife and I won out and we
decided to go to back to the FanZone. Marek, the husband, was convinced it
would be too crazy…def correct. At around 7:30 it took almost an hour of
strenuous pushing, mob style, to get through the doors of the FanZone. I shit
you not, this was highly unsafe and stampede like. You saw the big pictures on
TV, half of Warsaw was in the FanZone. Once the fear of death/missing the game
was quelled by getting inside I took a look around. The pictures I took don’t
do it justice but some of the aerial shots we saw on the screens do. Imagine
not a city block or two closed but the majority of the downtown area. There
were I think 7-8 screens the size of an intersection with people as far as the
eye could see facing each screen. They were positioned so that there were many
city blocks facing each screen. 100% of people were wearing red and white.
Almost everyone had a scarf, face paint and any number of other silly costumes.
Very music festival-esque. Unfortunately, despite a strong start, Poland
deprived us of what would surely have been one of the craziest parties anyone
has ever experienced. Bummer.
Next day, just watched the games with Mark, the Polish
homie, all the while discussing what could have been. He was bummed.
MATCH DAY! I took a train to Gdansk from Warsaw, about
5.5 hours and got in at 2:30. I figured I would check into my random hostel and
then check out the Old Town before getting into game mode. Not possible. The
entire city was already FLOODED with Spaniards and Croatians just raging.
Interestingly enough and a very positive dynamic to step into, they got along
quite well and everyone was being extremely gracious towards the Polish hosts.
Everyone of every language knew the chant of “POLSKAAAAAA biały i cerwony” This
was included in the mix of every other chants throughout the entire day. The
next 4 hours consisted of beer drinking, singing, dancing, occasionally
starting random conversations (Spanish to Spaniards and English to Croatians).
Everyone was deliriously excited and it was here that I vow to attend every
international soccer tournament possible, period. It’s just the f’ing best atmosphere
possible! Also really funny were the many chants of “Arrivederci Italia!” Come
on entertaining 2-2 tie!!
Getting to the stadium was easy but time consuming as
Gdansk is a small town and not used to transporting 40,000 spectators from the
main area to the brand new stadium about
5 km away. Side note, no idea what this stadium will be used for in the future,
seriously…
Once I got off the train and started following the hoard
of people towards the stadium we finally got a glimpse of the stadium. Sooooooooooooo
sick. I was a little nervous as I still needed to pick up my ticket from the
UEFA version of will call but that process was actually really easy. Ticket in
hand, I giddily went toward the stadium finishing the last beer of the game,
beer inside is non-alcoholic, silly. I tried to walk around and take pictures
of everything so I could share it with everyone; I think I did an ok job.
Walking in I realize that my ticket is literally on the midfield stripe and row
25! This is what buying “section 1” gets you. I got inside in time to check out
warm-ups and am only reminded of the Barca games I used to see of the skill and
touch of all the players. The Spaniards are playing the fastest games of 1
touch keep away that is humanly possible. For anyone who has ever played the
game seriously, it is humbling.
The entrances are chilling and the stadium is pretty much
full. Advance planning and knowing where your team will be helps out the euro
fans. The game itself was one of Spain’s “boring games” where all they did was
artistically pass the ball around with incredible touch and control. They
controlled everything. The pace of the game was so leisurely that we might as
well have been relaxing on the Costa del Sol with a table of sangria, just like
the Spanish prefer. The only real break in Spain using superior skill and
lackluster ambition was in counter attack. Luka Modric is spectacular and
clearly a world class talent. He took the ball and flew past people to create
the only real Croatian chances of the match. I will be furious if he moves to
Madrid and I am forced to hate him.
Spain casually decides to win the game at the end and
completely screw over Croatia. Kind of a bummer for the Croatians and messes up
the friendly dynamic of earlier in the day but nothing bad happens. Probably 30
minutes after the game and just as everyone is getting on the trains it starts
to rain as hard as humanly possible. After seeking cover in the underground
train station of the old town people start to venture out into the rain because
there is no beer in the underground train station. This creates a dancing
street party of Spaniards, very fun but very wet. I have no idea what this town
of Gdansk is actually like because this experience was so unique to this
particular day.
I’ll stop here because the next day I flew to Sweden and
nothing particularly unique to Euro Cup happened here. I watched the Sweden
game at my friends apt in Stockholm and everyone wished the game had mattered.
If you like blondes, move to Sweden immediately, it’s all true!
On that note, I hope you enjoyed reading this and see you
in Brazil!